CAT ADOPTION INFORMATION
REMEMBER: If you have any questions, concerns or queries at any point before or after adoption, we are here to support and assist you. You can contact us via text, email or social media.
Coming home…
We know you are so excited about the thought of bringing your new cat/kitten home! Every cat is different and some will show outward signs of signs, while others choose to hide it. There are some easy things you can do to ensure a safe and happy transition from foster care to your home but the most important thing is to go slowly and at the cat/kitten’s pace.
WHERE
Prior to bringing your new friend home, have a separate room set up! This can be a bathroom, spare bedroom, study of laundry that will be the pets safe zone. They should be put in this room with the door closed.
You should spend as much time as you’d like with them in this space. Children should be supervised to ensure they aren’t overwhelmed.
WHAT
In this space there should be food, litter, fresh water, bedding and toys. Be mindful to keep the litter away from the other items.
We recommend having both hidey beds and open bedding so your new pet can feel safe.
HAZARDS
Do a check around the house for any small, ingestible items such as: earrings, hair ties, elastic bands, curling ribbon, bobby pins, safety pins, lolly wrappers, pills and medications and cable ties. Children’s toys, balloons, foam bath toys and marbles can also be dangerous.
Plants may also be toxic to animals. While it may be easy to think that your new pet won’t bother with the plant there are some common plants, like lilies, that if ingested can cause death very quickly. This could just be a speck of pollen that fell down onto a surface that your cat walked on and then ingested while they groomed themself.
OTHER ANIMALS
Other animals should not have any contact with your new cat/kitten at this stage. This even includes eye contact through the doorway.
Most cats take some time to settle into a new place and existing cats take time to accept new friends so it’s important to take it very slowly to ensure success.
After the first few days you can start to ‘scent swap’ by giving each animal a blanket or bed with the other animals scent on it. Cat world is all about smell so the more they get accustomed to each other without meeting in the flesh, the better.
KITTENS
Remember that 12 week old kittens are the equivalent of a two year old human baby so they are still learning to be their best cat self.
They can easily have too much fun and forget to go and find the litter so it’s best they spend the majority of their time settling in with a litter tray nearby.
WEEK TWO and beyond…
Hopefully your new cat/kitten has begun to bond with you and is very much enjoying your company in their safe space. If they aren’t quite there yet then they may need more time in this space to be comfortable. For those who are ready now is the time to start introducing them to the rest of their new home.
THE HOUSE
You can start to leave the door ajar and let your new cat/kitten explore at their own pace. They may strut right out or prefer to hang out in their space. Either is perfectly fine and they shouldn’t be taken from that space if they don’t feel comfortable.
If you are going to be away for long periods of time your new cat/kitten may like to be in their safety zone space. This ensures mischievous kittens don’t get into trouble while you’re out too!
WHAT
Make sure they litter trays are in accessible places and that there are enough for the cats in the household. We recommend the teapot method of one tray per cat plus one for the house.
Be mindful that things like vacuum cleaners and washing machines may be loud and scary to your new cat!
OTHER ANIMALS
While your new cat/kitten is getting used to exploring the house you should keep existing cats in another space and dogs on a lead so that you have control if the new cat/kitten runs away from them. Once they are settled moving around the house then you can let your pets meet.
It’s important not to force any interactions. Hissing and growling are normal cat behaviours but if you think it’s going overboard a quick clap usually distracts them. Your new cat/kitten should always be able to retreat to their safety zone without another pet following them in.
HEALTH & WELLNESS
INTESTINAL WORMS
All animals in our care are regularly parasite treated but continued parasite treatments throughout your new pets life are essential even if you cannot ‘see’ worms.
Worming treatment should be given:
- Every two weeks from 2 to 12 weeks
- Once every 3 months for the rest of your cat’s life
Worming can be completed using tablets or spot-on products. Tablets (Milbemax, Drontal, Bravecto) can be crushed into food if needed. Spot on products (Advocate, Revolution, Neovet) are applied to the skin between the shoulder blades (good for cats who won’t take tablets), however not all spot-ons kill tapeworms so they should be treated with an all wormer tablet (like Popantel) too.
Please note: Products sold at the supermarket like Excelpet and Aristopet have been found to cause serious side effects. We do not recommend you give them to any pets.
VACCINATIONS
Cats and kittens are given a series of vaccinations to help protect them from several viruses.
Young kittens are given their first vaccination at 6-8 weeks of age. Most vets now recommend a series of three vaccinations be given one month apart. Your adoption agreement will advise when your cat/kittens next vaccination is due.
The basic vaccination is the F3, which protects against 3 viruses:
1. Feline Rhinotracheitis (FR) is caused by a herpes virus and results in symptoms such as sneezing, coughing and mouth ulcers, sometimes conjunctivitis with discharge.
2. Feline Calicivirus (FC) is very similar to FR with the exception that coughing is less common with FC. Together, these two viral diseases account for most cases of ‘Cat Flu’.
3. Feline Enteritis (FP) also called Feline Infectious Enteritis or Panleukopenia is caused by a parvovirus and is a very serious disease. Symptoms include loss of appetite, vomiting, a very high temperature and lethargy.
Booster vaccinations every 12 months are usually recommended and will be required if your cat will be visiting a cattery.
Some vets prefer to use an F4 vaccination, which covers the three listed above plus Feline Chlamydia (FChl) which is a virus that usually gives cats the general symptoms of Cat Flu plus gunky eyes (conjunctivitis). Vaccinations can also be given for Feline Leukaemia and FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus) – these are given in a separate series of vaccines and are not commonly given. Please note that if you vaccinate for FIV it will result in your cat recording a false positive in future tests.
FOOD
The best food for your feline is not necessarily what they think is tastiest. Supermarket brands are designed for two things: what tastes good, and what looks like it tastes good. Brightly coloured kibble of different shapes and colours looks like it has all the necessary ingredients, and the cat seems to enjoy it. The cat enjoys it because it is packed full of sugar and artificial colours and flavours and preservatives!
Good quality cat food kibble will be uniform in colour and shape, look fairly dense and moist and is based on natural ingredients. A ‘Super Premium’ food is highly recommended, these are only stocked by vet clinics and pet supplies stores and are designed in conjunction with veterinarians to provide a complete and balanced diet for your cat.
Several brands are available and all are slightly different in terms of how they are made and what they contain. The best include: Royal Canin, Hills Science Diet, Ziwi Peak, Advance and Leaps and Bounds. Squishies uses mostly Royal Canin food for our foster cats and your adoption agreement will advise which food your new cat/kitten has been eating.
Super Premium foods seem expensive to buy but are more cost effective in the long term because:
• Your cat eats less quantity but is satisfied
• They result is smaller, firmer and less smelly stools.
• In most cases the kibble has a special coating designed to prevent tartar and look after your cats teeth
• Your cat will have less health problems in the long term, particularly those related to an imbalance in vitamins and minerals (such as urinary tract problems)
We suggest planning ahead and ordering online as it is more cost-effective or purchasing at a local pet store that offers price-matching. We do not recommend giving your pet raw meat (especially chicken) due to the risk of salmonella.
COLLARS
We do not recommend collars for most cats as if they are inside they are usually unnecessary. If you choose to use a collar please remember:
Use a collar with a breakaway clasp - This means that if your pet gets caught on something they will be safe. If it unable to open it can cause serious injury or death
Remove any bells - these can be extremely irritating and frustrating to a cat as they have that sound in their ears 24/7. If you are worried about wildlife we suggest installing an enclosure to keep them safe and apart from wildlife
SQUISHY SPECIFIC CARE
EYES
The eye area of squishy cats can get crusty and gooey because their flat face doesn't allow for good drainage.
We recommend:
• Using a cotton makeup pad and wet it with warm water (no salt water)
• Then wipe around the cat's eyes. You should ensure that the folds of the cats face are clean as well as underneath their eyes.
• Thoroughly dry the area after wiping. If you don't do this, the discharge can stain your cat's coat and also lead to infections if the cat's eye ducts to become blocked.
• While cleaning around your cat's eyes, it is a good time to inspect their eyeballs.
Squishy cats can be prone to problems with their corneas, such as scratches or ulcers, so look at their eyes regularly to make sure that the surfaces of their eyes are smooth and there is no redness, cloudiness, or abnormal discharge that may indicate a problem.
We have put together a Squishy Face Cleaning Kit for those who want to get everything they need in one place. You can get one here.
COAT
Persian cats have a long, silky double-coat which will matt and tangle easily if not brushed daily. While the coat of an Exotic Short hair is shorter than a Persian it still requires management as it is dense and can still become matted easily if not cared for.
A typical cat brush is not effective on a Persian cat’s fur as it doesn’t get down the the base of their fur.
We find that a wide-toothed comb like a greyhound comb is the most effective at de-tangling.
Problem areas include: behind the ears, under the chin, the stomach area, and underneath each arm. If you comb the whole coat daily (spending a bit more time in the problem areas) your cat is less likely to have a matt and will find the process much more enjoyable.
Some owners may also decide to clip their cats in summer to keep them comfortable. Some cats may require partial clipping all year round to reduce the fur they’re ingesting or to assist in toilet hygiene.
We do not recommend products like the Furminator as is cuts your cats fur and can damage it if used long term.
BOWLS
Due to the shape of their faces, many squishy cats find it difficult to eat from regular pet bowls.
We find that raised and/or angled bowls work best for them being able to eat the food and keeping the mess to a minimum.
They also reduce whisker fatigue, strain on their necks and in some cases it can assist with cats that vomit soon after eating.
You can get these bowls in stores and online but we also sell them in our fundraising store here. Alternatively an easy way to test if it will help your squishy is to use a flat plate on top of a raised surface.
WATER FOUNTAINS
Ensuring that your cat stays hydrated is very important, especially as Persians and Exotics can be predisposed to kidney problems. Some cats also prefer water that moves and will stick their paws into still water to make it move.
We suggest large, wide-mouthed ceramic bowls as well as water fountains. Cost effective ones can be found at stores like Kmart or online stores like Pet Circle and Petbarn.
COMMON ILLNESSES
RINGWORM
Is not actually a worm, rather a fungal infection the same as ringworm in humans. Ringworm is most common in kittens and young cats, and does not cause any obvious discomfort to the patient.
Whereas ringworm in humans presents as a red circular patch on the skin (hence the name RINGworm), in felines it usually presents as a patch of grey, scaly skin. The hair on the patch falls out and gradually the scales come off leaving a reddish bald patch on the cat. The most common places on the body for ringworm to occur are the extremities – the paws and ears especially.
Ringworm is contagious, spread by fungal spores, and can be caught from just about anywhere. As spores are able to survive in the environment for up to 6 weeks, a single spore picked up from outdoors in the soil, or from an infected child or another animal, is enough to bring about ringworm in a kitten or cat.
Treatment for ringworm: some vets will prescribe an antifungal drug (most commonly sporonox) to treat ringworm, this is best used only in severe cases or ones where other treatments are difficult (such as patches close to the eyes or mouth). Left untreated, most cases of ringworm will clear up on their own, about 3-4 weeks after the scaly patches first appear.
The most effective treatment is bathing the kitten once or twice a week in a special antifungal shampoo called Maleseb. It is also useful to apply an antifungal cream such as Canesten to the patches once or twice a day.
CAT FLU
The term ‘Cat Flu’ is commonly applied to several viral infections that can cause your kitten to become sick. Much like with humans, many animals who are said to have the ‘Flu’ often have a mild viral infection akin to the common cold.
However, in a healthy, vaccinated cat, ‘Cat Flu’ is limited to a week or two of sneezing and watery eyes, and a bit of a sore throat or snotty nose. Vets will commonly prescribe antibiotics (usually Doxycycline/Vibravet) because the ‘Flu’ is viral, antibiotics are of limited value, but they are useful in staving off any secondary infections that may occur while the cats immune system is under stress. The best cure is a warm bed and lots of cuddles!
When to see a vet: if your kitten is lethargic or depressed its best to see a vet. If it has gone off its food – a cat’s appetite is stimulated by smell, so if your cat has a stuffy nose and can’t smell the food, it is less likely to eat, or it may have a sore throat. Keep an eye on the colour of your kittens gums, they should be pink, if they start to go pale, then its time for a trip to the vet, and also check their eyes, they should be bright and alert. If your cat/kitten’s eyes go dull or glassy, go to the vet.
DIARRHOEA
Diarrhoea is reasonably common in young cats and kittens but can happen to any cat and is usually caused by one of the following:
Sudden change in diet, or eating too much of one thing
Intestinal Worms
Stress, such as moving house or owners going on holiday
Gastro or other tummy bugs
The best treatment for Diarrhoea (assuming the cat is fully wormed) is boiled chicken for a few days, then a gradual return to the normal diet. Be sure to watch out for dehydration, especially in young kittens.
If it does not clear up within a few days then vet attention may be required.
We are always here to help our adoptees so please reach out if you have any questions or issues that come up at any time.